1973 Chevrolet Camaro - LSA

Gotta love a Gen II Camaro, we sure do! This one is powered by a Schwartz-modified supercharged LSA engine running E85. It put down about 660 RWHP!
Clean custom body details and fitted with modern ZL1 Camaro seats, this '73 is as comfortable as it is fast!

Frame & Suspension

Schwartz Performance bolt-in G-Machine chassis system
Power steering rack
Ridetech single-adjustable coilovers
HD splined sway bars front & rear with aluminum arms
Baer 14″ brakes, 6 piston front and rear

Engine

GM LSA 6.2L crate engine, with Schwartz 700+hp package & E85 (660 rwhp on E85)
GM Performance wiring harness & ECU
ConceptOne billet serpentine drive w/AC and power steering
Custom air intake w/K&N filter
Stainless steel 1.875” headers, ceramic coated
Custom 3” stainless steel exhaust, Magnaflow mufflers

Drivetrain

Tremec T56 Magnum, close ratio
McLeod RST dual disc clutch & steel flywheel
Custom steel driveshaft
Moser 9” full floater, 31 spline axles
Moser 9” third member with TrueTrac differential, 3.70 gears

Wheels and Tires

RSVForged RS-1, 19×9″ front, wrapped in 255/35/19 tires
RSVForged RS-1, 19×12″ rear, wrapped in Michelin 345/30/19 tires

Paint & Body

Modified front panel w/LED fog lights
Deleted side marker lights
Minitubbed rear wheel wells
Smoothed firewall
Bedliner applied to entire floorpan
Pearl white paint by PPG, laid down by Steve Nick Customs

Interior

Dakota Digital HDX gauge system
New Camaro ZL1 full power seats w/custom leather cover
Custom-wrapped leather rear seats to match front
Wrapped leather dash
Custom leather wrapped door panels
Fiberglass center console wrapped in leather
Double-DIN head unit
Trunk-mounted Optima battery
Vintage Air A/C & controls
Flaming River steering column
Sparco steering wheel
4 point roll bar

Other Features

Custom BeCool aluminum radiator w/electric fan
IIMuchFabrication fuel & differential vents
American Autowire universal builder harness
LED tail lights
Baer Brakes ReMaster billet master cylinder

Sheet metal fab and rust repair gallery

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RH front firewall mount has been replaced, modified, moved, or something, at some point. It was welded 1/4" too high and 1/2" too far to the RH side, in order to be square & even with the other side, and our frame. We have not decided if we're going to modify the body or just modify the frame slightly, but would rather mod the body so it's consistent.

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Close up of the RH front body mount.

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These circles illustrate where there should be plug welds. This flange is not attached to the rocker. It's a flange for a floor brace that the subframe mounted to.

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The ground off area is where the new floor was rested on top of. There are no plug welds here. There should be.

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Slit from cutting into the floor during the minitub process. Needs to be welded closed.

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This area circled has no welds. It's just sitting against other sheet metal. It needs to be welded. Also note the larger gap where the outer wheel well meets the rocker.

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This is the LH rear now. Again very little welds.

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Another brace that was cut off, needs to be cut & smoothed.

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Another view of the LH floor area. There's also a cut off brace just to the right of the X. This was likely used with a body cart or something. Needs to be cut off & smoothed.

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These circles illustrate where there should be plug welds. This flange is not attached to the rocker. It's a flange for the middle floor brace.

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Another pic of the RH front area, showing the gap between the fender and the body where it is to be bolted on. We cannot fasten the fender to the body because of this.

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The third RED arrow.. right next to that weld you see a bright line. This bright line is a light we're shining through from the inside. For whatever reason this isn't fully welded so we will need to weld this shut along the whole seam.

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LH door gap. The LH side of the car has tighter door gaps than the RH side, meaning the LH of the car is "squished" or something. The doors will need to be cut a little for a proper gap.

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RH front, just behind the front wheels. All the marked areas have NO welds whatsoever. We will need to drill through the first layer of the flanges on the left and plug weld them. And seam weld the other areas. Also notice the U shaped slot in the bottom of the fender, shown in the left middle of the photo.. The hole above it is where a captured nut/clip nut is attached to the body. There is about a 1" gap here. It should be within 1/4". Looks like damage at some point. This will need to be addressed, otherwise you'll have a 1-inch spacer between the body and the lower fender mount on that side. The LH side is decent enough to work with.

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Bottom LH door gap. The top part is pretty even, so the back half of the car may be a little too low, causing this gap (probably from the major surgery).

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The line in the middle of the photo, about an inch to the right of where the arrow is pointing.. that's a tear in the roof channel. Needs to be welded up.

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The quarter panels seem to bee too low compared to the trunk lid. We will need to likely modify the trunk area or just build up the quarter panels to fix this. The trunk is as low as it will go here, and still isn't flush with the top of the quarter.

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Chassis fitment gallery

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Engine gallery

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Exhaust fabrication gallery

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Pre-assembly & mockup gallery

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Stripping of old epoxy primer & bondo uncovered a large dent in the roof.

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Roll bar stub

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Bodyshop and paint gallery

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Final Assembly gallery

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Interior & upholstery gallery

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Completed gallery

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Where Classic Style meets Modern Technology